Semitone scarf

Sometimes pattern designs start from a particularly lovely yarn or colour, sometimes they come into your mind fully formed (not often for me – it would be nice!) and sometimes there is a particular detail or stitch you want to use and it takes some time and experimentation to get to use it in a fully fledged design.


I have wanted to design a scarf with ribbed ends for quite a while – I’ve also had some lovely soft Juniper Moon Farm Herriot Heathers yarn sitting in my stash for a couple of years – stubbornly not telling me what it wanted to be…


So when I came across another skein of the same yarn in a different colour in a charity shop a couple of months ago  I got down to proper thinking and swatching and eventually (after a few false starts – as usual) I came up with the Semitone Scarf.


Semitone scarf

I wanted something simple, with clean lines and a bit of texture. I started off thinking I would carry the garter stitch lines which run up one half of the scarf right to the end on the same side. As I was working on it however, the difference in the gauge between the two sides became more pronounced as the scarf got longer and I decided it would be more even if the garter lines were swapped to the other side for some of the scarf. This turned out to be a much better look I think!


So, here is my latest free pattern for you lovely knitters who need a cosy scarf this winter…

Semitone scarf detail

Materials needed

Basically, you can make this scarf out of any yarn you have enough of for the length you want – I used 3 skeins of Juniper Moon Farm Herriot yarn, which is DK weight and 218 yards per 100g skein and 4mm (US 6) needles. This made a scarf which is 28cm/11″ wide and 199cm/78″ long (nice and long for wrapping around you on a wintery day!)

But – you could use anything really, as long as you end up with enough fabric to wrap around your neck!


Sl2 purlwise wyib = slip the next 2 stitches from the left needle to the right needle as if to purl them with the working yarn at the back of the needles.

Sl2 purlwise wyif = as above but with the working yarn in front of the needles



Cast on 62 stitches.

Ribbing –

1st row:  K2, P2, rep to last 2 sts, K2.

2nd row: P2, K2, rep to last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat these 2 rows until you have around 12cm/5″ of ribbing.

Body –

1st row: Knit to last 2 sts, Sl2 purlwise wyib.

2nd row: K2, purl to last 2 sts, Sl2 purlwise wyif.

3rd row: repeat 1st row.

4th row: K2, P29, knit to last 2 sts, Sl2 purlwise wyif.

Repeat these 4 rows until you are almost finished your first skein or ball (with enough for a few rows left), finishing on a 3rd row.

Full ridge row: K to last 2 sts, Sl2 purlwise wyif.

Adding 2nd skein/ball of same colour when required, continue as follows:

5th row: K to last 2 sts, Sl2 purlwise wyib.

6th row: K2, purl to last 2 sts, Sl2 purlwise wyif.

7th row: repeat 5th row.

8th row: K31, purl to last 2 sts, Sl2 purlwise wyif.

Repeat the last 4 rows until you are almost finished your 2nd skein/ball (with enough left for 1 row and weaving in the end).

Repeat Full Ridge Row.

Change to 2nd colour.

Repeat rows 1 to 4 until you have the same amount of half ridges worked with your first skein/ball before the first full ridge row.

Ribbing –

1st row:  K2, P2, rep to last 2 sts, K2.

2nd row: P2, K2, rep to last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat these 2 rows until you have around 12cm/5″ of ribbing.

Cast off and weave in ends.

The slipped stitch selvedge should help the scarf stop curling but you will probably find it helpful to block your scarf too. This will also make the fabric look smoother and more finished.

The finished scarf reminded me of a long piano keyboard with it’s different sets of ridges (or ‘keys’) which is why I called it the Semitone Scarf.


Happy scarf knitting!



Yes, I know it’s summer, but I have been knitting a scarf…

…I did start it in the winter though. So if you fancy trying to knit this scarf and you’re anything like me, you might want to start it now!


I have been a bit obsessed with reverse stocking stitch stripes recently, ever since I was almost finished this scarf (with the ‘right’ side out) and decided it looked better with the ‘wrong’ side out. Now I’m pretty much knitting everything in reverse stocking stitch stripes. Don’t worry, it will pass once I’ve found a new obsession, much like my obsession with welts (though I still love a welt).







You will need: 3 X 50g in white, 2 X 50g in blue and 1 X 50g in orange. Or any other colour combo you like. I used DMC Woolly in shades 01 (white) and 102 (orange) and Sublime Extra Fine Merino in shade 363 (indigo) for the blue. These are all DK weight, you can use any yarn you choose although different weights will result in a different size scarf of course. Mine is 240cm long (excluding fringe) and 16cm wide.

You will also need a 4.5mm (US 7) circular needle (or whatever size suits your yarn weight) and knowledge of magic loop as this scarf is knitted in the round. See my tutorial here if you are not sure how to do magic loop. You will also need a smallish crochet hook for the fringes.

Note: As the whole thing is reverse stocking stitch you can just knit it the usual way (knitting every round), with the ‘knit’ stitches facing outwards and the ‘purl’ stitches on the inside, then turn it inside out at the end. For this pattern, I’ve called the ‘knit’ stitches the ‘wrong’ side and the ‘purl’ stitches the ‘right’ side. Just make sure you leave your yarn ends on the outside or ‘wrong’ side as you go.

Cast on 72 sts in your blue yarn.

Join in the round.

(Knit every round.)

Knit one round in blue.

Switch to white, knit one round.

Continue working the last two rounds until the blue yarn runs out.

After the next white round, switch to orange.

Continue in the same manner until you have a few yards of orange and white left (enough for a fringe).

Cast off.

Secure your ends, making sure they are all on the ‘wrong’ stocking stitch side – you don’t need to worry too much about weaving them in as they will be on the inside of the tube. Then turn your tube ‘right’ side out.

Make an orange and a white fringe. I like to use a greeting card – wrap the yarn around the card right along it’s length, cut the yarn at the opening side of the card, you then have even lengths for fringe making.

Close the ends of the tube with your fringes, orange on the blue end and white on the orange end (or you could do blue on the orange end if you prefer and have some left). Using a crochet hook, poke it through both sides of the tube between the first and second round. Grab the loops of two bits of yarn folded in the middle. Pull the loops through and then pull the ends of the yarn through the loop and tighten. Make one fringe loop every other stitch or it will stretch out your scarf end.

You are finished and can now flounce around in your scarf. Then take it off, block it like a proper knitter and flounce around again.

Ta da!


Cosiest comfiest mitts

I’m eventually getting round to adding a free mitt pattern to go with this cowl. (The main problem was getting decent photos so forgive the ones I’ve managed to get!)

I also knit a pair for the Wee Man as he hates wearing gloves with fingers (he can never get his fingers into the right bit) but he can put these on easily and he loves them.

NB: these mitts are designed to be roomy and slouchy, this size fits my medium (7.5″ round the knuckles) hand with a bit of room but they don’t fall off. If you have smaller hands you may want to reduce the stitch count a bit.

Cowl and mitt together
Cosy comfy mitt
Cosy comfy mitt
Other colours
Other colours
Wee man size
Wee man size

Here’s how to do it:


You’ll need 2 X 50g balls (one of each colour) of Sublime Extra Fine Merino DK or any DK yarn to get tension/gauge of 13sts and 29 rows to 10cm.

6mm (US 10) circular needle (if using magic loop method) or dpns.

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.


(Child size in brackets – should fit children from around 5 to 10 years old)

Holding both colours of yarn together, cast on 36 (25) sts.

Join in the round.

Knit in garter st (knit one rnd, purl one rnd) for 40 (20) rnds.

Next rnd: K 27 (16) sts, cast/bind off 4 (3) sts, K to end of rnd.

Next rnd: P 27 (16) sts, cast on 4 (3) sts, P to end of rnd.

Work 6 more rnds (both sizes).

Cast/bind off. Sew in ends.


A cowl or two

I’ve been busy finishing off a few designs recently – one is published as a pattern on ravelry and one is a very easy one which I would like to share with you for free.


It’s for a simple cowl, it’s knit in the round but it’s an easy first project in the round if you’ve never tried it before.


Here is the finished item…


multi cowl


You will need:

2 X 50g Sublime Extra Fine Merino Dk in each colour (4 X 50g in total) – I used shade 015 (Clipper) and shade 348 (Faye) in this version – see the Etsy link below for other colour versions.

6mm circular (up to 24″ length) or dpns if you prefer.

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.




Using both colours of yarn held together, cast on 112 sts

Join in the round

Work in garter st in the round (K one rnd, P one rnd) for 61 rounds.

Cast off.

Weave in ends.


This makes a cowl which is 75cm/30″ in circumference and 22cm/8.5″ in height. If you would like it to be more fitted, cast on less stitches (Tension/gauge is 13sts and 29 rows to 10cm/4″). Or if you would like it to be longer so you can wind it around your neck a couple of times, add on more stitches. You will of course, need more yarn for the longer option. I used most of 2 skeins of each colour for the pictured size so work out how much longer you want it to be and multiply the amount of skeins accordingly!


Of course, if you don’t knit, (or would prefer me to do it!) you could always pop over to my Etsy shop and order a custom knit one…

If you fancy more of a challenging knit, you could try my Oran Mor cowl…


img_0621 asw_4146


The pattern is for sale on Ravelry here or there is also a custom knit version for sale in my Etsy shop here.


I am in the middle of another cowl at the moment – I seem to have caught the cowl bug. It may have taken over from wrist warmers as a favourite design…





I’m from further north than you

I have been having a little difficulty translating the scarf design I showed a peep of here into a pattern. It consists of many diagonal stripes which stop and start randomly across the scarf so there is no easy repeat to write or chart. (I tried to do both and ended up turning the air blue) – it is just too unwieldy to write out.

So, I am going to use this post as a ‘recipe’ for the scarf and it can be up to the knitter where they start and stop the stripes.

First, here’s a proper look at it…

DSC_0032 DSC_0036 DSC_0012 DSC_0016ASW_2176

It’s called ‘I’m from further north than you’ after the Wedding Present song I was listening to while wrestling with the pattern writing.

Here is how you do it:


Regia 4-fädig Tweed – 3 x 50g

Around 5 yards each of 2 colours in 4ply or finer for stripes


Length: around 154cm

Width: around 24cm

(I found this to be the right length to double the scarf and tuck the ends through the loop as in the last picture above. This means you can see the garter stitch diagonal at the end and the coloured stripes in the main part round your neck.)


This is not too important as long as your garter stitch tension is not wildly different from your stocking stitch tension. If so, your ends will be a lot wider than your middle… you could use a smaller needle to start/finish but be aware that the garter stitch and stocking stitch sections do merge together for a number of rows.


Cast on 56 st in main colour yarn

Work in garter st for 23 rows

Row 24: P1, K to end

Row 25: Knit

Row 26: P2, K to end

Continue in this way, adding an extra purl stitch on every even row until you have reached 10 purl stitches (or 10st in stocking stitch)

Next row: K to last st, P1

Next row: P11, K to end

Next row: K to 2nd last st, P1

Next row: P12, K to end

Keep going like this, adding another P stitch on the right side for every 10 stitches across the stocking stitch pattern and shifting it one stitch to the right every row. At the same time, continue adding another purl stitch on the wrong side for every row until the garter stitch section ends. You will then be continuing in stocking stitch with purls instead of knits every 10th stitch on right side.

In this way, you will be creating diagonal trenches in which to crochet a chain of coloured stripes afterwards. Once you have finished the garter stitch section you should have a purl trench every 10th stitch of your row.

Now, here is where it becomes a ‘recipe’ rather than a pattern…

Sometimes, don’t start doing purl stitches when you get another 10 stitches across, start them further up on a later row (you will have to work out where they are in the row but it will be easy enough – 10 stitches from the last purl trench). Sometimes, stop one purl trench some way up it and restart it again after several rows so you create a two part stripe. Sometimes, finish it before it reaches the other edge of the scarf. The stripe pattern is really up to you – I tried not to make too many gaps close to each other – mix them up a bit. Although I made sure my first and last stripes were full length.

Tip: if you slip stitch the coloured stripes into the trenches as you go along (once a trench is finished) you can see better how the colours/gaps look and this can help you decide what to do later. You can also use two colours for one stripe if you have a gap in the middle.

Once your scarf reaches around 130cm long, begin another garter stitch diagonal by knitting on both sides instead of creating another trench – one stitch extra of garter for each right side row. Continue until the entire row is garter stitch. Knit in garter stitch for 23 more rows. Cast off.

Surface crochet stripes: Using a small crochet hook and your choice of coloured yarns, make a slip knot, insert the crochet hook through the first stitch in purl trench and catch the slip knot on reverse side. Pull loop through to front side, insert crochet hook into 2nd stitch of trench and loop yarn round on reverse side. Pull hook through to front and through previous loop. Continue until you reach the end of the trench or a gap. Cut yarn, pull through last loop in front then using a darning needle, pull end through to reverse (over end of last loop) and sew in yarn end on reverse.

Tip: As the scarf is mainly stocking stitch it will curl at the edges without blocking. I found that the Regia yarn responded well to a steam iron on the reverse side to prevent curling. Please check your yarn ball for ironing instructions.

That’s it! Enjoy your scarf! Happy knitting!